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Email: bob@animalattitudes.com
When you take your puppy home, there are several things you need to get started and make life easier for everyone.
FOOD: A premium dry puppy food is adequate. If you prefer, 1/3 canned food may be mixed with 2/3 dry.
BEDDING: You need to designate an area for the puppy to sleep and get him a blanket or towels to sleep on that are his.
TOYS: You should have a variety of toys with different textures for the puppy. Without a variety, your puppy will get bored and start making toys out of your furniture, shoes and laundry.
MEDICAL CARE
Proper preventive medical care is one of the first things that needs to be addressed with your new puppy. During the first 24 hours of life, a newborn puppy receives antibodies from the mother’s milk. These antibodies protect the puppy from diseases to which the mother dog has a resistance or has been vaccinated against. The level of these antibodies declines steadily and eventually disappears at approximately 10 weeks of age. These antibodies will offer protection to the puppy, but at the same time have a neutralizing effect on vaccines. Since there is no way of knowing when an individual puppy can be successfully immunized, a series of vaccinations is required to provide an overlap between the temporary immunity the mother’s milk provides and the long-lasting protection of vaccinations. Following is the most recommended vaccination program:
6-8 weeks of age: DA2P (Distemper), Parvo, Corona, Stool check for parasites.
Every 3 weeks DA2P (Distemper), Parvo, Corona Booster with Rabies vaccination
until 4 months given with the final booster.
of age.
Distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis and parainfluenza (DA2P) with Parvo and Corona boosters should be given annually after the initial series.
The initial Rabies vaccination is good for one year, and in Arizona, thereafter, is given every three years. Each state varies, so be sure to check with a veterinarian in your area if you live outside Arizona.
Spay or neuter your dog at 6 months of age or older.
Select a veterinarian for your puppy in the same way you would select a doctor for your family. Do not just go to the one closest to your home. Ask friends, family, groomers or trainers for their recommendations. Go to the office and ask questions. Check out the holding and treatment areas. They should be clean and odor free. Any professional clinic will be more than happy to show you around their facility.
HOUSEBREAKING
TRAINING AND CORRECTION
Housebreaking can be one of the most frustrating problems faced by the puppy owner, but it doesn’t have to be. With a proper, consistent training program, most puppies can be housebroken in as little as three days to two weeks. Your friends will tell you to rub the dog’s nose in the mess and put him out, or to spank the puppy with a rolled-up newspaper which, in reality, only teaches the dog to be wary of the owner because it can’t associate the punishment with the soiling. With proper training, the puppy can be taught not only to relieve itself outside, but in a specific area of the yard. It is also possible to teach the puppy to relieve itself on command, which is very beneficial on trips.
At about six weeks of age, a puppy’s brain begins to develop very quickly and by eight weeks of age you can start housebreaking. The first thing you will want to do is have your puppy examined by a veterinarian for internal parasites. Many puppies are born with intestinal worms and will need to be dewormed in order for the housebreaking program to work effectively.
The quickest method of housebreaking is a five-step program: (1) Correction and praise, (2) Schedules, (3) Proper nutrition, (4) Confinement, and (5) Removing old odors. All five must be used for the program to be effective.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED:
Following are a few items which will help you housebreak your dog:
Leash - at least 6 feet long.
Collar - a standard buckle collar that fits the dog comfortably.
Confinement Area - a small room or crate.
Odor Remover.
CORRECTION AND PRAISE
Let me start by saying, “NEVER CORRECT YOUR PUPPY FOR MAKING A MESS IN THE HOUSE UNLESS YOU CATCH HIM AT IT!” Correction is a method of teaching and to teach the puppy, he must understand why he is being corrected.
Correction and praise are the most important parts of the training, but have to be used with the other four steps to be quick and effective. Correction is not punishment. Punishment is really an outlet for our anger and frustration with the puppy for doing something we do not like. Punishment may temporarily relieve our anger, but teaches the puppy nothing; and in most cases, makes us feel badly after the fact. Correction is a method of communicating to the puppy that it has done something wrong. CORRECTION MUST ALWAYS BE FOLLOWED WITH PRAISE WHEN THE PUPPY DOES WHAT WE WANT. As with all types of training, the puppy has to know what we want and what we will not accept in order for him to learn.
Effective housebreaking training requires that you are both physically and mentally present. If you cannot be aware of what your puppy is doing or are going to be gone, you must confine the puppy to insure that he does not eliminate indoors when you are not aware and able to correct it. Each time the puppy gets away with eliminating in an inappropriate area, it sets you back in the training. If you can have someone both physically and mentally with the puppy for three days straight, it is possible, in a good percentage of cases, to housebreak the puppy that quickly.
When you see the puppy start to eliminate in the house, shout in a firm deep voice, “NO, outside!”, or “NO, go to your spot!” If you do this very loudly, the puppy will be so startled that in most cases his muscles will constrict and he will stop eliminating so that you can hook the leash to the collar and take him outside. Once outside, stay with the puppy until he finishes his urination and/or bowel movement. When the puppy has eliminated, praise him in a very happy, excited voice. Note: Never let the puppy see you clean up after him.
The key is to be aware of the puppy at all times and correct him each and every time, followed by taking the puppy outside and giving him tons of praise when he eliminates in the desired place. Never let the puppy outside by himself to eliminate during the training. If you are with the puppy playing or working in the yard and see him eliminate, praise him.
To teach a puppy to eliminate on command is just a matter of watching the puppy for signs that he is going to relieve himself, such as turning in circles, whining, and squatting. When he begins to relieve himself, give the command of your choice, such as “Hurry up, get it over”, or “Go Potty”. If you are consistent with this, your puppy will eliminate on command in a very short time.
